Gel Curing
success and failure. Why? Under-curing, over-curing and incorrect curing, each is possible with
UV gels. Each can lead to service break down and may even cause allergic reactions. UV (ultraviolet)
light has been widely used for curing artificial nail products over the past 25 years. UV nail lamps
should really be called UVA nail lamps, because they are designed to produce UVA light, the safer
form of UV light. Most people reading this article will probably already know this if they perform
these types of services, however not all will be aware of the struggles that UV light goes through
to penetrate UV gels? Or how plain, everyday “oxygen” in the air can cause special problems for nail technicians using UV gels? In this article I will explore the seven secrets to the perfect UV gel cure.
The light that cures UV gels is invisible to the human eye. The UVA nail bulbs create light from a
part of the spectrum your eyes can’t see. Some birds and butterflies can see UVA, but we can’t.
UVA bulbs create both visible and invisible light. The visible blue glow doesn’t cure the UV gel,
curing is done by invisible UVA light. A typical UVA bulb for nail lamps has a lower UVA intensity
than sunlight. Even so, these lamps are covered to protect your eyes. Your clients need not worry
since their hands are only exposed for short periods. UV nail lamps have a long history of safe use.
Secret 2
UVA light is strongly Attracted to UV gels. UVA light is strongly absorbed by UV gels, so much so that the top layers absorb the majority of the UVA before it can penetrate very deeply at all. The upper layers act like an umbrella to shield the lower layers, making it more difficult to properly cure thicker layers of UV gel. This explains why UV gels cure more thoroughly when applied in thinner layers and with longer UVA exposure times. It makes sense that highly colored UV gels are even more difficult to properly cure.
Secret 3
UVA light curing can’t compete with oxygen. Oxygen in the air prevents the UV gel molecules in the top most layer from linking together to create hard polymers, so that part remains sticky and gooey. Below this sticky “inhibition layer” where there is very little oxygen, UVA light will
Don’t judge a UV bulb by its “wattage”. UVA bulb “intensity” is very important to proper curing. Intensity determines how much UVA light is available for curing the UV gel. Without sufficient intensity, UV gels can’t properly cure. How the UV gel product is formulated will determine the intensity of UVA light needed and the correct exposure time required for proper curing. It is very important to understand that UVA light ntensity is completely different from “wattage.” Wattage measures how much electricity a bulb will use; higher watt bulbs use more electricity. Proper curing does not depend on “wattage.” Don’t be fooled into judging a UV lamp by the wattage of the UV light bulbs. For example, some 27 watt V
UV bulbs must be changed regularly. Always remember: the wattage of a bulb will remain the same, but UVA light “intensity” slowly degrades very time a UVA bulb is turned on. After a few months of regular use, these bulbs may no longer properly cure an artificial nail. How often hould you replace them? Generally, after about two to four months of regular use the entire set of bulbs should be changed. You should also consider replacing them if clients’ nails begin to show signs of unusual service break down or anything else that might suggest under-curing. Here’s a working tip: Carefully clean nail dusts from the bulbs whenever needed, i.e. once per week. Dirty bulbs have a lower UV intensity, especially those coated with big gobs of hardened gel. Bulbs that are coated with cured nail product can’t be saved, but they can be flipped over and the other side used then they must be replaced.
UV gels can be under-cured. All UV gels solidify after they reach 50-55 per cent cure. Just because they have hardened and look cured, it doesn’t mean they’re “properly cured”. Undercured UV gel nails will be prone to staining, discoloration, lifting, breakage and increased risk for clients to develop product-related allergies. For example, if a client complains of nail beds that feel “warm” hours after the service or underneath the nail plate feels “itchy” or if the nail plate is partially separated from the nail bed, these are all possible signs of developing a skin allergy. Under cured dusts and inhibition layers are more likely to cause skin allergy; as always, direct skin contact with both should be avoided. Other signs of under-curing are visible: small voids or air pockets underneath the artificial nail, loss of clarity or a cloudy nail, a thicker than normal sticky surface layer, or surfaces look dull or have spots where the coating was too easily wiped or filed away.
Secret 7
UV gels can be over-cured. more isn’t always better! A higher intensity UVA nail lamp can over-cure UV gels designed for use with lower intensity lamps. For example, with too much UVA intensity, the UV gel may cure too rapidly and over heat and seriously burn client’s nail beds. All UV gels harden and undergo the same “exothermic” or “heat releasing” processes during cure, so this is true for all UV gels. It’s not just a marketing gimmick; it’s based on scientific fact: always use the UVA nail lamp that was designed for the UV gel product of your choice. Now you can appreciate the vast difference between “cure” and “properly cure”. It’s far more important than many would imagine. If UV gel nails aren’t properly cured, the results could range from lifting to cracking to air pockets to allergic reactions and more. Of course, your clients need not worry because you’ve read and reread the Seven Secrets. Use this knowledge wisely and prosper.
“Just because they have hardened and look cured, it doesn’t mean they’re “properly cured”. Under-cured UV gel nails will be prone to staining, discoloration, lifting, breakage and increased risk for clients to develop product related allergies.”
“UV (ultraviolet) light has been widely used for curing artificial nail products over the past 25 years. UV nail lamps should really be called UVA nail lamps, because they are designed to produce UVA light...”
“Oxygen in the air prevents the UV gel molecules in the top most layer from linking together to create hard polymers, so that part remains sticky and gooey... UVA light will cure the UV gel into a durable artificial nail, as long as it isn’t applied too thickly.
By Doug Schoon, chief Scientific Advisor, Creative Nail Design.